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Knitting idea
Feb. 24th, 2011 08:51 pmI want to make a shawl for myself. ( Wherein I talk pattern ideas. )
I like this.
May. 7th, 2010 08:53 pmCeltic Knot necklace
I'm not sure if the site requires a login; it's Lion Brand patterns.
I have difficulty wearing a lot of jewelry because my skin is sensitive to at least two metals, so even nickel-free jewelry often doesn't work for me. I have a small cadre of pretty pieces that I've bought or that friends have given me, mostly in sterling silver, but I often forget to put them on because I never got into the habit of wearing jewelry very much. I could wear a knit necklace. I just need to get a spool with small pegs on it, so I could make it up in one of my fine-gauge yarns for a less-cumbersome look than the one in the picture. Elizabeth's spool is designed for chunky-weight yarn and the stitches for worsted weight look too loose for my taste. I might look up less bulky versions of a Celtic knot, too.
I have a purple Malabrigo that I couldn't decide on a project for. I bought it because it was gorgeous, and I take it out every now and again to pet it. I think I now have a possible project for it!
I'm not sure if the site requires a login; it's Lion Brand patterns.
I have difficulty wearing a lot of jewelry because my skin is sensitive to at least two metals, so even nickel-free jewelry often doesn't work for me. I have a small cadre of pretty pieces that I've bought or that friends have given me, mostly in sterling silver, but I often forget to put them on because I never got into the habit of wearing jewelry very much. I could wear a knit necklace. I just need to get a spool with small pegs on it, so I could make it up in one of my fine-gauge yarns for a less-cumbersome look than the one in the picture. Elizabeth's spool is designed for chunky-weight yarn and the stitches for worsted weight look too loose for my taste. I might look up less bulky versions of a Celtic knot, too.
I have a purple Malabrigo that I couldn't decide on a project for. I bought it because it was gorgeous, and I take it out every now and again to pet it. I think I now have a possible project for it!
Barbie's Flirty-but-Covered Dress Pattern
Dec. 14th, 2008 01:07 pmThis post is unlocked so I can link it to my Ravelry page. Visitors are welcome, and I'd love to see what you make from my pattern, but I'm not adding a lot of friends at the moment.
This dress is worked in sc from the hem up, in one piece. If you have a doll handy, you'd be wise to try the pattern on her as you go; otherwise I don't vouch for gauge. It fits when it is snug over hips to pull up but otherwise goes on easily.
Materials: I used Knit Picks Shine Worsted (Wisteria) and a G hook. Whatever yarn you choose, choose a hook that will create a fairly tight fabric. I'm sure you could play with colourblocking this dress without too much trouble; I just wanted something to cover Barbie's nakedness in half an hour or less. (The outfits that Barbie came with did absolutely nothing to cover her nakedness; hence the dress.)
ch 40; join with sl st to form ring, being careful not to twist the chain.
Rds 1-3: ch 1, sc in each ch (or st) around, join with sl st to first sc.
Rd 4: sc 2 tog, sc in next 3 sc; rep around, join with sl st to first sc.
Rd 5: rep rd 1.
Rd 6: sc 2 tog, sc in next 2 sc; rep around, join with sl st to first sc.
Rd 7-12: rep rd 1.
Rd 13: sc 2 tog, sc in next sc; rep around, join with sl st to first sc.
Rd 14: sc 2 tog, sc in next 3 sc; rep around, ending with 2 sc; join with sl st to first sc.
Rd 15: rep round 1.
Rd 16: sc in first 2 scs, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each remaining sc; DO NOT JOIN.
Rd 17-20: ch 1, turn; sc in each sc around, increasing one sc in each increased sc from the rd below.
Rd 21: make one bobble st to serve as a button (or sew a button on after at this spot.) Sc around to front of dress, then hdc in each of next 10 scs across the bodice; sc around to last sc, ch 5, sl st in last sc to form ring for buttonhole; check to be sure the buttonhole will fit over the bobble stitch you made or over the button you've chosen.
Rd 22: sl st in prev sc from rd below, sc in each hdc, sl st in sc to three sts before bobble st. Ch 10, or enough to make a shoulder strap; sl st in appropriate spot on bodice; sl st in 3 sc; ch 10 again, join with sl st to appropriate sc in back of dress to form second shoulder strap. Fasten off and weave in ends.
If you're industrious, a quick scalloped edging along the hem would look pretty and be easy to do in multiples of four or five stitches, or three stitches plus one. Similarly, the dress can be made longer by adding more rounds in the 7-12 round section, without changing its overall shape very much.
Enjoy! May our daughters and small female relatives learn that fashion can, in fact, involve clothing your Barbie (and yourself) with more fabric than the average street walker!
This dress is worked in sc from the hem up, in one piece. If you have a doll handy, you'd be wise to try the pattern on her as you go; otherwise I don't vouch for gauge. It fits when it is snug over hips to pull up but otherwise goes on easily.
Materials: I used Knit Picks Shine Worsted (Wisteria) and a G hook. Whatever yarn you choose, choose a hook that will create a fairly tight fabric. I'm sure you could play with colourblocking this dress without too much trouble; I just wanted something to cover Barbie's nakedness in half an hour or less. (The outfits that Barbie came with did absolutely nothing to cover her nakedness; hence the dress.)
ch 40; join with sl st to form ring, being careful not to twist the chain.
Rds 1-3: ch 1, sc in each ch (or st) around, join with sl st to first sc.
Rd 4: sc 2 tog, sc in next 3 sc; rep around, join with sl st to first sc.
Rd 5: rep rd 1.
Rd 6: sc 2 tog, sc in next 2 sc; rep around, join with sl st to first sc.
Rd 7-12: rep rd 1.
Rd 13: sc 2 tog, sc in next sc; rep around, join with sl st to first sc.
Rd 14: sc 2 tog, sc in next 3 sc; rep around, ending with 2 sc; join with sl st to first sc.
Rd 15: rep round 1.
Rd 16: sc in first 2 scs, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in each remaining sc; DO NOT JOIN.
Rd 17-20: ch 1, turn; sc in each sc around, increasing one sc in each increased sc from the rd below.
Rd 21: make one bobble st to serve as a button (or sew a button on after at this spot.) Sc around to front of dress, then hdc in each of next 10 scs across the bodice; sc around to last sc, ch 5, sl st in last sc to form ring for buttonhole; check to be sure the buttonhole will fit over the bobble stitch you made or over the button you've chosen.
Rd 22: sl st in prev sc from rd below, sc in each hdc, sl st in sc to three sts before bobble st. Ch 10, or enough to make a shoulder strap; sl st in appropriate spot on bodice; sl st in 3 sc; ch 10 again, join with sl st to appropriate sc in back of dress to form second shoulder strap. Fasten off and weave in ends.
If you're industrious, a quick scalloped edging along the hem would look pretty and be easy to do in multiples of four or five stitches, or three stitches plus one. Similarly, the dress can be made longer by adding more rounds in the 7-12 round section, without changing its overall shape very much.
Enjoy! May our daughters and small female relatives learn that fashion can, in fact, involve clothing your Barbie (and yourself) with more fabric than the average street walker!
